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November 05 - November 13,  2004

Preparation ] Europe ] Morocco Page 1 ] Morocco Page 1a ] Morocco Page 1b ] Morocco Page 2 ] Mauritania ] Mauritania Page 2 ] Mali ] Mali Page2 ] Niger ] Cameroon ] Gabon ] Gabon Page 2 ] Congo ] Congo Page 2 ] Angola ] Angola Page 2 ] Angola Page 3 ] Angola Page 4 ] Angola Page 5 ] Angola Page 6 ] Namibia ] Namibia Page 2 ] Namibia Page 3 ] Namibia Page 4 ] Namibia Page 5 ] Namibia Page 6 ] Namibia Page 7 ] Namibia Page 8 ] Namibia Page 9 ] Tanzania Page 1 ] Tanzania Page 1a ] Tanzania Page 2 ] Tanzania Page 3 ] South Africa Page 1 ] Botswana Page 1 ] Botswana Page 2 ] Botswana Page 3 ] Botswana Page 4 ] Botswana Page 5 ] Botswana Page 6 ] Botswana Page 7 ] July 22 ] July 25 ] July 29 ] August 03 ] August 09 ] August 16 ] August 24 ] September 5 ] September 11 ] September 12 ] September 21 ] September 25 ] September 29 ] October 03 ] October 09 ] October 15 ] October 19 ] November 04 ] [ November 13 ] November 20 ] November 29 ] December 9 ]


Country Facts: Swaziland

Latest Updates:     

12/16/2004

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
0km

Meals

 

Weather
Mlilwane NP, Swaziland

05 November, 2004

Sondzela Backpackers

Not Recorded

Odometer: 41840km

Sunny, 89F)
degrees

We walked to the main campground early this morning where we picked up two mountain bikes and a guide. We spent a couple of hours riding around the park, spotting some nyalas, bushbucks (with babies!), hippos, warthogs, and various birds. In the afternoon Witt worked on website updates while Jen read and lounged by the pool, and later we went for a short game drive, heading up to a lookout point. It started to rain, and we sipped our beers while watching a dramatic thunderstorm roll in.

.

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
356km

Meals

 Peri-peri chicken

Weather
Mkuzi NP, South Africa

06 November, 2004

Campground

Not Recorded

Odometer: 42196km

Sunny, 95(F) Degrees

We left the park this morning and stopped at a candle factory before heading for the South African border. It was a beautiful drive -- the mountains were quite impressive while the jacarandas were fully in bloom with their bluish-purple flowers. The border formalities went smoothly so we were quickly on the road to Mkuzi National Park.

We explored the park by car seeing buffalo and elephant before enjoying sundowners at one of the hides. There we saw groups of black and white rhino (sparring together), zebra, giraffe, malachite kingfishers, and loads of Vervet monkeys. On our way back to the campground we signed up for a guided nature walk for tomorrow morning.

We cooked and enjoyed a great braai dinner and fortunately got cleaned up in time to watch another fantastic electrical storm. We slept soundly with the cooler temperatures that followed.

.

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
135km

Meals

Leftover beef stir-fry

Weather

Sodwana Bay, South Africa

07 November, 2004

KwaZulu-Natal Parks Campground

 Not Recorded

Odometer: 42331km

Sunny, 92(F)
degrees

We awoke early to be on time for our nature walk. Had a wonderful walk in the woods with our group and guide and saw lots of beautiful birds, including a black cuckoo and a Natal robin.

On our way out of the park we came across a couple, Lyn and Dudley, who were having car problems (hole in oil pan). We were unable to find a suitable tow point on their Audi, so we offered to give Lyn a ride to the nearest town to find a mechanic. On the way, Lyn told us that they were retired grape farmers from Hermanus (near Cape Town), South Africa, and were in the Mkuzi area for the purposes of a short, 3-week holiday. We very much enjoyed talking with her and we were really impressed at how calmly both she and Dudley handled their car crisis.

Once we found a suitable mechanic (which actually went very smoothly), Lyn thanked us, gave us her business card, and invited us to visit them when we drive through Hermanus in a few weeks. We happily accepted and wished her well before driving towards Sodwana Bay.

The drive to Sodwana Bay was a bit of an adventure since we opted to take one of the secondary roads (which might’ve been graded during the WWII era), so Rafiki’s suspension got a bit of a workout during that stretch. Upon arriving in Sodwana Bay, we chose a camp site just outside the Coral Divers resort so we could use their facilities while we were there.

We talked with someone about dives for the following day, and were shown a promotional video of some of the local dive sites. We got so excited that we decided to sign up for the Advanced Open Water course.

While ordering some lunch we ran into Andy, who we last saw at Bamboozi Backpackers in Tofu, Mozambique. He quickly brought us up to speed about his adventures over the past few weeks and we discussed some of the dives that we wanted to do while in Sodwana Bay. Andy is a very energetic and entertaining fellow and we found ourselves laughing until our sides hurt when talking with him.

In the evening we had a meeting with our instructor, Yvette, where she gave us our reading assignments for the next few days. We also met another couple, Phillipe and Uta from Germany, who will be taking the course with us. After the meeting, we had a few drinks with Andy, Phillipe and Uta before heading to our tent to do some reading before our morning dive.


A trophy from a fishing competition at Sodwana Bay

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
0km

Meals

 

Weather
Sodwana Bay, South Africa

08 November, 2004

KwaZulu-Natal Parks Campground

 Not Recorded

Odometer: 42331km

Sunny, 92(F) Degrees

Woke up early and met with Yvette and the Coral Divers staff (including “Black Magic”) to get fitted for proper dive gear. We took the tram to the beach and there received our pre-dive briefing for our “multi-level” dive. The dive was fun, and we spent the afternoon relaxing at Coral Divers’ bar.

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
0km

Meals

 

Weather
Sodwana Bay, South Africa

09 November, 2004

KwaZulu-Natal Parks Campground

 Not Recorded

Odometer: 42331km

Sunny, 94F) Degrees

We did a “Drift” dive with phillipe and Uta this morning. The dive was fun but not great. In the afternoon, our “Underwater Navigation” dive was a bit of a joke, but still fun.

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
0km

Meals Weather
Sodwana Bay, South Africa

10 November, 2004

KwaZulu-Natal Parks Campground

 Not Recorded

Odometer: 42331km

Sunny, 96(F) Degrees

We did a “Deep” dive with Phillipe and Uta this morning, which was fun but not spectacular with somewhat poor visibility. For our Underwater Naturalist dive, we had along a slate and a pencil and we were supposed to name four vertebrates (fish), four invertebrates (eels and stuff) and two types of plants (harder than it sounds). No sooner had we reached the reef than I tapped on Jen’s shoulder and pointed to a ragged toothed shark. The “raggies” are famous in this area, but they aren’t expected to show up for another couple of weeks. He didn’t stick around for long, but it was very cool to see her swimming past. Not knowing what kind of shark it was at the time, I wrote “big f—king shark” on the slate. The rest of the dive was very enjoyable and even though we wrote down “green slimy thing” for our plants, Yvette passed us anyway and gave us our certification


Ragged toothed shark (photo taken in Durban aquarium)

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
265km

Meals

 

Weather
Near Umflozi NP, South Africa

11 November, 2004

Backpackers

 Not Recorded

Odometer: 42596km

Rainy 78(F) Degrees

Witt wanted to try out kiteboarding and had arranged a meeting with a local instructor this morning. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t cooperating and we decided to skip it. We headed for Uhmflozi National Park and spent the rest of the day on a game drive in the park. There is no camping allowed in the park, so we drove 60km to a backpackers to stay instead. It was pretty late when we arrived, so we elected to get a room and have dinner at the restaurant, which was excellent.

.

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
421km

Meals

 

Weather
Pennington, South Africa

12 November, 2004

Slade's dad's back yard

 Not Recorded

Odometer: 43017km

Sunny, 96(F) Degrees

We awoke early this morning to be in the park by six am. We explored the southern part of the park and saw loads of baby impala running around. At around noon we headed south for Durban. Just as we entered the city, Rafiki sputtered and died. The fuel gauge still showed nearly a quarter of a tank, but I suspected and hoped that we had just ran out of fuel. We coasted to an off ramp from the freeway, and managed to park on a median. Witt unstrapped a jerry can and walked a couple of bocks to fill it. The car started up again and we filled up the tank, verifying that the tank holds exactly 120 liters. Back on the road, we headed further South and found Slade’s Dad’s house, where Krissy and Slade are staying, about 60km south of the city. It was really good to see them again and we had a great time catching up with them. By coincidence, Didi and Heike, a German couple whom Krissy and Slade traveled with early in their trip, are visiting on holiday from Germany. We had a braai, drank some beer and wine, and spend a wonderful evening talking and swapping stories.

.

 

Updated Information

Date Camp Site or Accommodations GPS

Distance  Today:
0km

Meals

 

Weather
Pennington, South Africa

13 November, 2004

Slade's dad's back yard

 Not Recorded

Odometer: 43017km

Sunny, 88(F) Degrees

Krissy took us along with Didi and Heike to the new aquarium in Durban today. It’s theme is a shipwreck and it’s very well done. There are shark and ray tanks, as well as a tank containing several species of fish from “finding Nemo.” There’s also a water park there and we had a great time splashing around in the sun.

.

Krissy and Heike

 

November 14 --->.


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